When the words Chenin Blanc are mentioned for most wine drinkers it brings Loire Valley wines to mind.
Winemakers in South Africa are working hard to change that perception.
During the Great South African Wine Show presented by Wines of South Africa on May 11, 2010 in New York, I was lucky to attend a 'Chenin Blanc' session where Andre Shearer (Cape Classics), Ken Forrester (Ken Forrester Wines) and Sean Griffiths (Kanu) shared their knowledge of the grape with us.
Ken reminded us that South Africa is not a recent convert to the grape as it was brought to the Cape in the late 1600…
It was suggested that rather than a rupture, South African Chenin Blancs are more like a bridge combining the restraint of Loire producers with the abundance of sunshine that brings ripe fruit and higher alcohol (2 points more than Loire wines) even though you don't taste it.
Chenin blanc is the most widely grown varietal in South Africa, twice as much as in the Loire region actually.
The country is blessed with the oldest soils in the world. They are best for low yield vineyards with older vines which deliver concentrated flavors.
Sean noted how easy drinking a fresh and fruity Chenin can be and that the wines have an amazing natural acidity not unlike Riesling.
They all agreed that richer and riper Chenin Blancs need food.
They suggested it as the perfect pairing with fish and shellfish, scallops with a creamy sauce for example. Foie gras and cheese would work too.
After this introduction, we tasted 6 Chenin Blancs running the gamut from Dry to Dessert Sweet.
Out of the 6, I especially liked the following 3 (all from Stellenbosch and around 14 % Alcohol):
First, DeMorgenzon Chenin Blanc 2008 was my favorite.
It comes from treillised vines from 1971, goes through natural fermentation in oak and matured for 8 months, lighter acidity, round mouth feel, great finish.
Around $29 retail in the US.
Next, best bang for the buck at $14.99, the Rudera Chenin Blanc 2008
More acidity yet complexity and intensity, a must try.
Last of my trio, was the De Trafford Straw Wine 2007
First of its kind, the grapes are left to dry on racks for 3 weeks after picking, ripe but not sugary sweet, intense flavors
Perfect with Blue Cheese or Creme Brulee
As most dessert wines available in half bottles (375 ml) for $47
Hooked on Chenin Blanc from, eager to know more, check the Chenin Blanc Association of South Africa site, about 80 producers.
If you don't find them on the shelves of your favorite wine store, tell them they don't know what they are missing and that they should order at least the Rudera. It will sell like hot cakes.