After seminar on Terroirs and Signatures de Bourgogne and before tackling the larger tasting, I had the chance and pleasure to sit down with Anne Parent of Domaine Parent to take the pulse of Burgundy wine region, changes in the past few years and where the region is headed.
Q: Anne, could you first give us a sense of where Burgundy as a wine region stands compared to the rest of the world?
Since Burgundy represent only 3% of the French production, we will never be able to blanket markets and stores around the world like Chile or Australia, that said the region exports 50% of its production to 150 countries. Top 10 includes England, USA and Japan.
Q: How has financial crisis affected sales?
In the US for example, from 2003 to 2007, our exports were on the up and up reaching 18 million bottles at its peak. Now we hover around 13 millions, 65% of it white wines. 50% of sales are to restaurants followed by wine stores (25%) and supermarkets and wharehouse stores (Costco, etc) at 10%.
Q: Are there big differences in countries attitude towards Burgundy?
Each country matters. You have to build a following, make people familiar with what we offer. In China for example, when i started 7 or 8 years ago, it was very hard to get anyone to taste. Most frequently asked question was: is your wine sweet. Now a growing number of Chinese customers have become serious wine fans and students and it is quite exciting to see it happen.
Q: Would you say that many wine drinkers are intimidated by Burgundy?
I think a number of them still associate Burgundy with Grands Crus, pricey and exclusive wines, when in fact that category represents only 2% of our total production.
Q: What would you say to wine amateurs who are sitting on the fence regarding Burgundy, a bit shy like someone wanting to ask someone on a date?
I would invite them to get comfortable by starting with wines in the $20 to $30 range. We have many of them. Try a Cremant de Bourgogne instead of Champagne, taste an Alligote, not everything is made of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Many wines from Cote Chalonnaise are still great values (Montagny, Givry). Profusion of names (appelations) which might confuse has a positive side, it reflects Burgundy's diversity.
Q: Is wine tourism (oenotourism) popular in Burgundy?
We were a bit late in embracing it and bringing all players (wineries, restaurants, tourist offices, hotels) together. 3 years ago forces joined and we are making up for lost time. The BIVB (Bureau Interprofessional des Vins de Bourgogne) website includes a detailed tourism section.
Q: Besides added revenues, what does oenotourism bring?
Producers get to meet their customers who in turn have a chance to see for themselves what Terroirs and Climats means with their very own eyes, bonds are created. Many of the appellations are small enough to be explored by foot.
Q: To conclude, in your travels abroad, some memorable moments you had?
Personally, I feel that Japan and Burgundy even though very different culturally, have a common love for beaufitul and tasty things. I had great meals at Le Bourguignon with its take on French cuisine (plus extensive choice of Burgundies) and on a recent trip had the joy to see my wines paired with classic Japanese dishes. Both the chef and I were in awe of each other which made it a bit awkward until food and wine melted it all away.
Thanks to Anne for her time and Cecile of BIVB and Sushma at Fleishman for making this interview possible.
(Route des Grands Crus photo by Gavin Sherry [may 2005] via Wikipedia)