I reconnected with Nancy Singleton Hachisu recently.
To toast the occasion, here is a recipe adapted from her most recent cookbook JAPAN: THE VEGETARIAN COOKBOOK (Phaidon, US $54.95, 2023) with photography by: Aya Brackett.
Play Cucumber Slumber (Weather Report) while prepping it.
CUCUMBER WITH UME AND SHISO
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4
Vegan, Dairy-free, Gluten-free, Nut-free
If you want to take this bright summer dressed dish to another level, include the inner nut (tenjinsan, 天神さん) of the umeboshi to add texture and an almond-like note to the salad.
INGREDIENTS
• 4 small Japanese cucumbers (101⁄2 oz/300 g), unpeeled
• 21⁄4 × 31⁄4-inch (6 × 8 cm) piece soaked konbu left over from making unheated konbu dashi
• 2 salted sour “plums” (umeboshi, see page 350)
• 4 green shiso leaves, cut into fine threads
DIRECTIONS
Finely julienne the cucumbers into thin threads 1 1⁄2 inches (4 cm) long. Finely julienne the konbu from the short side.
Pit (destone) the umeboshi by scraping away the flesh with the back of a knife. If using the tenjinsan, rap the umeboshi pit to break open and pry out the inner nut. Finely chop the inner nut. Finely chop the flesh of the umeboshi to a smooth paste.
In a bowl, toss together the cucumber, konbu, umeboshi, and tenjinsan (if using) until the ingredients are evenly distributed. Fold in the shiso and serve as a light summer salad. Best soon after being tossed since the salty umeboshi will cause the cucumber to weep.
Going vegetarian for Tokyo Thursdays #324
(Excerpted from Japan: The Vegetarian Cookbook © 2023 by Nancy Singleton Hachisu. Photography © 2023 by Aya Brackett. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.)