Anything But the Possum, Ocracoke Island Fig Cake from Recipes from the American South by Michael W. Twitty

Anything But the Possum, Ocracoke Island Fig Cake from Recipes from the American South by Michael W. Twitty

by Serge the Concierge

Anything but the possum with sweet potatoes is the reaction I got so far when I mentioned recipes from this book.

My first pick is Ocracoke Island Fig Cake with Buttermilk Glaze adapted from Recipes From The American South (Phaidon, US $54.95, 2025) by Michael W. Twitty of Afroculinaria with Photography by Nico Schinco.

Besides this fig cake, some of the book’s offerings like Maryland Stuffed Ham (p.224), Kush (cornbread hash) also known as Coush-Coush in Louisiana (p.155) and Chinese Mississippi Collard Greens (p.110) could add a Southern flair to your Thanksgiving table.

While barrier islands border a number of Southern states, including Virginia, South Carolina, and Georgia, North Carolina’s barrier islands are unique in the short distance between the islands in the chain. Ocracoke Island, largest of  these islands known collectively as the Outer Banks, has abundant figs central to the cuisine and atmosphere of the region. Ocracoke fig cakes, preserves, and fig-based sauces are legendary.

Prep time: 1 hour

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Serves: 10-12

INGREDIENTS

For the cake

  • Softened butter and flour, for the pan
  • 2 cups (260 g) all-purpose (plain) flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon fine salt
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 ½ cups (300 g) sugar
  • 1 cup (8 fl oz/240 ml) vegetable oil
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • ½ cup (4 fl oz/120 ml) buttermilk
  • 1 cup (300 g) fig jam
  • 1 cup (130 g) coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts

For the glaze

  • ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) buttermilk
  • ½ cup (100 g) sugar
  • 4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
  • 1 ½ teaspoons cornstarch (cornflour) or flour
  • ¼ teaspoon baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

DIRECTIONS

Make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Generously grease and flour a 10 × 4-inch (25 × 10 cm) tube or Bundt pan.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda (bicarb), allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt.

In a large bowl, with a whisk or electric mixer, beat the eggs well. Add the sugar, oil, and vanilla and beat until evenly incorporated into a thick, smooth batter. Add half the flour mixture and stir until no dry patches of flour remain. Add the buttermilk and mix well. Add the remaining flour and stir until no dry patches of flour remain. Add the fig jam and the nuts, using a spatula to mix everything until evenly incorporated. Quickly scrape the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake for 55 minutes – 1 hour 5  minutes, until the cake has risen and is firm on top.

Transfer to a wire rack to cool in the pan for 15 minutes.

While the cake is cooling, make the glaze: In a medium saucepan, whisk together the buttermilk, sugar, butter, cornstarch (cornflour), and baking soda (bicarb). Bring to a boil over medium  heat, stirring often. Cook until smooth and thickened a bit, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Cover to keep warm.

Unmold the cake onto a wire rack. Pour the warm glaze over the cake. Let the glazed cake cool completely, then transfer to a cake plate before slicing and serving.

STORAGE: Store airtight at room temperature for up to 5 days or in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

(* Extracted from RECIPES FROM THE AMERICAN SOUTH © 2025 by Michael W. Twitty. Photography © 2025 by Nico Schinco. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.)