Monks introduced vines to this northwest corner of Aveyron at the foot of the Causses as far back as the 8th century.
It is only natural then that after studying to become a priest and a stint as a clown Jean-Luc Matha became one of those bringing new life to the Marcillac appellation.
Where a century ago 1000 hectares of vineyards existed, only 150 of them (370 acres) remain.
The rest was damaged by phylloxera.
This off the beaten path wine that I purchased by Mr Matha is Cuvee Lairis (2004).
While Marcillac wines have to be at least 80% Mansois, this one is 100% that varietal.
The Marcillac Fact Sheet that I was lucky to find on the Tarn & Aveyron pages of French Entree tell us that "other grapes allowed include
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Merlot, Jurançon Noir, and
the nearly extinct Mouyssaguès".
Mansois can also be found as Fer Servadou or Braucol in southwest France.
Grapes for Cuvee Lairis are grown on a steep hillside and aged in stainless steel.
I agree with its importer Charles Neal that this cuvee offers more than a hint of paprika.
Mr Neal also finds some cassis.
One of these wines that is not manufactured.
It has a personality of its own.
Retails for around $14.
Also by the same winemaker is Cuvee Peirafi. Weimax Wines of Burlingame (California) has more details.
I could not resist borrowing their photo of ‘Brother Jean-Luc‘ as they call him.
I hope they forgive me.
To give credit where it is due, I gleaned most of the historical and technical details on Marcillac from French Entree.
On American transplants in Aveyron: Comfort Food a la Francaise via Cuisine Quotidienne
I have visited Mr. Matha’s estate. I’m not surprised to learn he used to be a clown! He has quite a personality, and also makes good wine. It’s a lot cheaper here, though, even with the favorable dollar rate.