Not everyone will have a chance to win a copy of Dessert Fourplay (Clarkson Potter) by Johnny Iuzzini, pastry chef at Jean-Georges in New York. We already have winners so we thought sharing this recipe would soften the blow for the others. Here it is:
Sweet Potato Cake ~ Cranberry Foam ~ Flax Seed Tuiles
SERVES 14 TO 15
Here, I’ve created my version of sweet potato pie, but it’s not as heavy and not as sweet. The cranberry foam gives a nice added pop of acidity.
For the Cranberry Filling 1⁄2 cup (124 g) Simple Syrup (page 184) 1⁄2 cup (120 g) water 3⁄4 cup (100 g) dried cranberries Put the simple syrup and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the cranberries and bring back to a boil. Turn off the heat and leave the cranberries to plump for 30 minutes. Drain well.
For the Cake 1 pound sweet potatoes 1⁄4 cup (30 g) all-purpose flour 3⁄4 teaspoon (3 g) baking powder 1⁄8 teaspoon (1 g) baking soda Coarse salt 3 tablespoons (45 g) heavy cream 5 large egg yolks 5 tablespoons (75 g) unsalted butter, melted 3 large egg whites 1⁄2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar Turbinado sugar
Heat the oven to 425ºF or 400ºF on convection. Prick the sweet potatoes in several places with the tip of a paring knife. Place on a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil and bake until the potatoes are very tender and the juices that have seeped out have caramelized, about 1 hour. When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel and put through a food mill to make a puree.
Put the puree in a saucepan and cook, stirring often, until the puree is very dry. Measure out 11⁄2 cups.
Reduce the oven temperature to 375ºF (350ºF if you’re using convection). Spray fourteen to fifteen 2 x 2-inch ring molds with cooking spray and coat the insides with sugar. Set them on a baking sheet lined with a Silpat or parchment.
Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and a pinch of salt together.
Put the heavy cream, egg yolks, and melted butter in a mixing bowl. Whisk until very smooth but not frothy. Whisk in the warm sweet potato puree. Whisk in the dry ingredients, beating just until smooth.
Put the egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk. Turn it on to low, and beat the whites gently for 2 minutes, to start establishing a structure. The whites will look frothy but still a bit wet. Turn the speed up to medium and add 3 tablespoons of the granulated sugar. Continue to beat at medium speed until the whites have body and are just shy of having soft peaks. Add 3 more tablespoons of the sugar and continue beating until the whites have formed firm peaks. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and beat until the whites are glossy and smooth and almost stiff.
Fold one-quarter of the whites into the batter to lighten it. Fold in the remaining whites, gently but thoroughly.
Fill a pastry bag with the batter and pipe into the molds, filling them one-quarter of the way up. Make a layer of the cranberry filling, then pipe in more batter to fill the rings two-thirds full. Sprinkle the tops with turbinado sugar. Bake until a knife comes out clean, about 20 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking.
Let cool on a rack for a minute or so, then remove the rings. Let cool completely.
For the Cranberry Foam 22⁄3 cups (340 g) fresh cranberries 1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (100 g) Simple Syrup (page 184) 21⁄2 teaspoons (2.5 g) Versa-Whip 600K (see Note) 1⁄4 teaspoon (0.3 g) xanthan gum
Set up an ice bath in a large bowl. Put the cranberries and simple syrup in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer until the cranberries pop and have broken down a bit. Scrape into a blender and make a smooth puree. Strain through a fine strainer into a medium bowl (discard the solids) and set into the ice bath, stirring often to chill completely. Sprinkle the Versa-Whip and xanthan gum over the surface of the cranberry puree and whisk in slowly and thoroughly. Whisk until very light and airy, the consistency of shaving cream. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until you’re ready to serve or for up to 5 hours.
MAKE IT SIMPLER
Here’s an alternative to the cranberry foam. Make the cranberry puree and mix it with an equal amount of heavy cream. Pour it into a soda siphon and charge it with a cream whipper charger (N2O). Give it a good shake and try a squirt; if it’s not carbonated enough for your liking, use a second charger. Make a varia-tion of the Crispy Almond Phyllo (page 211) to stand in for the tuile; replace the almond flour with whole flax seeds. Note: Versa-Whip is a brand name for hydrolyzed soy protein, which acts as the emulsifier and whipping agent in this foam. You can buy it online from Terra Spice Company.
For the Date Puree 31⁄2 ounces (100 g) fresh dates 11⁄4 cups (300 g) water Pit and chop the dates. Put them in a small saucepan with the water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off the heat and let the dates sit for 10 minutes. Put the dates and liquid in a blender and make a smooth puree. Strain through a fine strainer (discard the solids).
To Serve Flax Seed Tuiles (page 206) Smear a layer of the date puree across half a dessert plate. Set a sweet potato cake on the puree. Whip the cranberry foam with a whisk to restore its consistency (it falls sometimes) and put a scoop of it next to the cake. Garnish with a tuile. Repeat for each serving.
This recipe can be found on Page 86 of Dessert Fourplay.
Get ready, get set!
(* Recipe and photo from Dessert Fourplay, copyright Clarkson Potter, 2010)